Giants of the Ancient Forest

If you like native trees I highly recommend a trip to Ancient Forest, located in the Lheidli T’enneh traditional territory of Northern British Columbia. As of 2016, 11,190 hectares of this unique plot of land was dedicated as provincial park for preservation and our enjoyment. This is raw nature at its best. Ancient Forest is bursting at the seams with biodiversity including ferns, devil's club, rare or thought to be extict plants, and most importantly, the giant western red cedar of the Cypress family (Thuja plicata) or "Tree of Life".

The Only Inland Temperate Rainforest

These trees are way bigger than anything else in Northern BC. Nothing close to this size is expected to grow so far up north and away from the ocean. Normally found near costal regions of the Pacific north west, only a strip eastern inland BC down to Idaho and Montana harbors this maritime like climate. Why? Pacific air rising over the nearby Columbia Mountains creates favorable rainfall and milder temperatures. Plentiful snow melt in the spring and precipitation during the otherwise drier months supports old growth forests similar to that of the coast. This makes Ancient Forest the only inland temperate rainforest in the world.

Living Ancient Wonders

Being in the presence of these mythical beings reminds me of a scene from Star Wars. As you approach, they gradually reveal themselves from the fog. Sweeping root flares rise collectively into massive knarled sometimes hollow stems. The tops sometimes die off and U-shaped branches curve upward toward their ends. These may thicken and becoming leaders, extending the life of the tree. An example of this concept is "Tree Beard", one of the largest and most interesting-shaped cedars of Ancient Forest. It stands at the climactic point on the main trail, with a station informing visitors of its significance.

We don't have trees like this out east. Having moved from Niagara (Ontario), I noticed the western red cedar is strikingly similar to its siblings, the eastern white cedar. Both have hanging canopies of scale-like leaves and long strands of fibrous bark. It was comforting and exciting at the same time imagining as if these trees made their way to the other side of the continent and became giants! Of course the reality of which came first, I'm not sure of.

A Shelter For Life

The canopies of western red cedar trees are home for a diverse variety of birds, bats, and other mammals. Bears often den in the hollows, and large platforms or cavities in the branches create ecosystems of lichens, and bryophytes. These decay over time, creating soil for plants like sword fern and salal to grow. Even hemlock and alder trees will take root in these high fertile platforms.

Ungulates like black-tailed deer, elk, and moose feed on the tender new growth of young trees and prefer it to the stiff needles of nearby conifers. Smaller animals like red squirrels, voles, and snowshoe hares can girdle the base of young trees.

While Western red cedar is an important food source for birds and mammals, it grows slowly and struggles to re-establish from animal damage. This can be a problem when accompanied by logging, global warming, and the increase of forest fires.

Trees Built To Last

The age and size of these trees are impressive. Western red cedars have been present in western North America for about 50 million years. Some of the oldest specimens today are upwards of 2000 years, growing to 230 feet tall, and to 23 ft in diameter. That's about 6 and a half school busses stacked end to end in height! These along with the coast redwood and giant sequoia are among the largest trees in the world. The "Cheewhat Giant" on Vancouver Island measures to 450 cubic meters, making it the largest tree in Canada by volume and the largest red cedar in the world.

How do these trees achieve such grandeur in size and age? Besides unknown reasons only the creator must know, much can be attributed to biological advantages as well as environmental ones which give western red cedar the gift of age. They can tolerate a variety of soil types ranging from nutrient rich to poor soils. In depleted areas they can be found in all stages, from pioneer to mid succesion but are often among the final specimens of the most mature, biologically rich old growth forests. In more temperate coastal areas the tree grows abundantly in many soil types . If inland, it prefers in moisture rich areas like Ancient Forest, fed by mountain water, streams, or areas with plenty of rainfall or stagnant water. Newly formed saplings are very tolerant of shade while growing in the understory of Douglas fir, western hemlock, and stika spruce. This can last many years before they rise to dominate the sun covered forest peak.

Unlike many other conifers, western red cedar has good ability to regenerate vegetatively. the branches and stems of these cedars take root easily, sending down roots when branches touch the ground; even fallen logs can regenerate and shoot up new leaders. Nurseries that propagate Cedars take advantage this vegetative reproduction. It's common to start new trees from cuttings (rather than seed) since they root so easily.

Western red cedars are truely durable trees, tolerating many soils, low light, and low soil nutrition. They can even survive forest fires, only to recover and regenerate themselves but they do need lots of access to water and aren't tolerant of dry areas. Perhaps this preference helps the tree always have an adement water supply throughout its life. Rot resistance (which I mention later) is a big factor as well to the preservation of bark and wood in its high moisture habitat.

A Sacred Tree

For thousands of years, First Nations used western red cedar extensively for tools, baskets, homes, totem poles, and canoes to name a few. The bark of western red cedar has both flexibility and strength properties. It was used to make things like rope and fishing line; the vines even had sufficient strength to haul in whales. Soft inner bark could be woven and used as such in daily necessities like clothing, bedding, and blankets. Heartwood was extracted from different live standing trees and they would use logs fallen from windstorms. This extra care taken preserved the tree helped grow the forest and provide for their ancestors.

Cedar trees were also good medicine. Leaves could be boiled and made into a tea, rich in calcium and vitamin C. Walking within the canopy is said to cleanse ones spirits and take away bad feelings. Native peoples used the branches extensively in ceremonies; Seen as "the tree of life" for healing and protection. Once small in population, the western red cedar owes the vast majority of it's current habitat to the native peoples who planted these sacred trees in their paths over thousands of years.

Modern Value

Western red cedar wood is a highly valuable commercially, two to five times the cost of nearby logging woods. It splits easily, is strong yet flexible, and Has an attractive reddish appearance for architecture. A naturally produced fungicide called thujaplicin gives it rot resistance without the need to be stained or treated, which is probably its most valuable feature. This allows fallen logs to resist decay for over 100 years. Cedar is used extensively outdoors where this resistance is needed for shingles, fence posts, and decking. Along with an advantage over decay, the wood has good sound proofing, insulation abilities, and shrinks less than other conifers. This makes stripped trunks of western red cedar highly sought after for building log homes.

The Future Is Uncertain

Western red cedars live in areas of natural resilience. Ancient Forest along with other old growth temperate rainforests resist fires, drought and flooding while sequestering more carbon than any above water area in the world. In Recent years however, global warming has impacted populations and is expected to continue if nothing changes.
The Salish peoples have a story of the cedar man, who possess a gift of foretelling and preparing for the future. At the end of his life, the creator transformed him into this ever giving tree. Perhaps the spirit of this tree continues to foretell the future as it begins to decline, warning us of the stress of the earth, and if we don't change for the better, the western red cedar will perhaps no longer be able to give us of its endless abundance. For now, nature reserves like the must see Ancient Forest will help spread awareness, protect, and preserve this sacred tree for the enjoyment of our ancestors and those of Lheidli T’enneh for many years to come.